
Before Texas was a sprawling empire, it was an idea born in a small town. Join me as I delve into the captivating history of Brenham and Washington County, where the seeds of Texas independence were sown. From the hallowed grounds of Washington-on-the-Brazos, where Texas declared its freedom from Mexico, to the charming streets of Brenham, this journey will unveil the surprising roots of a legendary state.
TRANSCRIPT
00:00
Hi and welcome to the Traveling Fool, the show where we explore the most intriguing aspects of travel, culture and history. I’m your host, Bob Bales, and today we are heading to Brenham, Texas, in Washington County, a region that is rich in history, bursting with natural beauty and home to a sweet delicacy which is a favorite of any true Texan. So, whether you’re a history buff, a foodie or someone looking for a serene countryside vibe, Brenham has something for everyone. Stay tuned as we explore the birthplace of Texas. Hello and thanks for tuning in this week and, like I said, this week we’re talking about Brenham, Texas, and Washington County. So, let’s start with history, because Brenham and Washington County have roots that run deep in Texas lore. This area just isn’t any small town spot. It’s where Texas was born. In fact, did you know that Washington on the Brazos, a state historic site in Washington County, is often referred to as the birthplace of Texas? It’s where Texas declared its independence from Mexico in 1836.
01:36
Washington on the Brazos state historic site is huge. It’s a sprawling area with a museum, the Star of Texas. Actually, it’s called the Star of the Republic Museum. It’s about 10,000 square feet of exhibitions. It tells the story of how Texas came into being. I actually rode up there one day. Now, see, I went on a trip to Brenham and Washington County, but I also live about an hour and a half away near Houston, so one day I took my motorcycle road up there and went to the museum separately. It was fascinating, I enjoyed it tremendously and, like I said, it’s got about 10,000 feet of exhibitions that tell the story of how Texas came into being. There’s also Independence Hall, where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed in March of 1836. And right next to it is Barrington Plantation. Now Barrington Plantation is the home of Dr Anson Jones. He was the last president of Texas and today you can visit that plantation and kind of step back in time and see what life was like in the early days of Texas. It’s actually manned by costumed I guess you can say guides and interpreters that work for the farm daily and do the daily chores and daily life on the farm, and so you can stop and talk to them. I’ll tell you how things had to be worked during those times and what they did to keep the farm running and what people had to go through. You can also stop by Fanthorpe Inn. Now Fanthorpe Inn is an 18-room stagecoach inn from the 1830s, and all of this is located at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site and just real nearby there, and Brenham is kind of the center. It’s definitely the largest town, the largest city in Washington County and it’s the county seat. I guess here’s a fun tip Brenham was named after Dr Richard Fox Brenham, who was a hero of the Texas Revolution, so it’s no surprise that the town itself is, you know, steeped in all kinds of Texas pride.
03:45
Another little town near Brenham is Chappel Hill, and Chappel Hill is home to the annual Blue Bonnet Festival and that attracts thousands of people each year. It’s the Blue Bonnet capital and the best time to visit Chappel Hill, or any time around Brenham, is actually in the spring because all the wildflowers are blooming. And Chappel Hill is just this little bitty town right off of Highway 290. And 290 runs between Houston and Austin and a lot of people just zip right through there. But if you stop and take a Chappel, Hill is a fascinating little town. I mean, they’ve got a historical museum, and you learn all about the town’s history, including its cotton and cattle heritage. Like I said, it’s home to the annual Blue Bonnet Festival and there’s also something called the Scarecrow Festival, and it attracts thousands of people each year to those things. And it’s also home to one of my favorite sausages, Chappel Hill Sausage, and actually that’s where they make it at. They have a store there. They also have a restaurant that serves their famous sausage plus barbecue and other items, but it’s one of the best store-bought sausages that you can find in Texas, and they make it right there in Chappel Hill. Every time I go through there I stop and pick some up.
05:10
Another town nearby that a lot of people don’t know about and it’s a shame is called Independence Texas, and Independence has got probably I don’t know less than 200 people live in town. It’s got one light and, thinking back on it, I’m not sure if it’s just a caution light or a stoplight. That’s on the main highway running through town and there’s a couple of streets on either side of it, but it is a fascinating town. In fact, Independence Texas is home to the very first university in Texas, and that university is Baylor. Baylor University has its beginnings in Independence Texas, and you can visit the site of the original Baylor campus. Now today Baylor’s in Waco, but back then it was in Independence. The old Baylor Park is there, and you can stroll among the historic ruins and enjoy picnic spots under ancient oak trees. And I came across Independence and I was like I never knew that Baylor University started in Independence, Texas. Sam Houston also lived in Independence in the 1850s and his widow bought a house there in 1864 where she lived out her remaining years. The house is still standing right on one of the main roads and it’s on the National Register of Historic Places. Margaret Lee Houston she’s also buried in the Independence, or she’s buried in Independence at the Family Cemetery which is right across the road from the Baptist Church where she and Sam attended church. Now the Baptist Church is the oldest operating Baptist church in Texas, which is why Baylor University was founded in Independence. Since Baylor started as a Baptist and still is.
07:04
If you’ve ever traveled much in the state of Texas, they have a lot of historic markers. They’re all over the state. They commemorate everything, events and anything of historic significance of a place, and I always enjoy reading them. You’ll find them on highways and in towns and everything. They’re all over the place and there’s a lot of historic markers in the little town of Independence. In fact, they have about 40, which is a lot for a town with a population of less than 200. There’s a little general store there that serves some great food and you can stop, get something to eat there, fill up with gas. You can drive around town. It doesn’t take more than about 10 minutes to drive all through the town and you can see little historic markers sitting outside a house that will tell you that back in the 1800s this house was owned by somebody who happens to be a famous historic figure from Texas past and somebody else lives there now. They don’t mind you stopping and taking pictures. Just you know, be mindful because somebody does live there. But Independence is only about 15 minutes outside of Brenham. Great little drive down the country road and you can spend a couple hours just wandering through town and looking at all the historic aspects of it.
08:17
Now, just outside of Independence is a place called the Antique Rose Emporium, and the Antique Rose Emporium is actually a nursery. That’s also a huge winding walking trail of roses. It’s a garden. It’s filled with historic and native roses, and it is a perfect spot just to walk around and stroll and get some stunning photos. The Antique Rose Emporium and they actually sell roses. They would probably appreciate it if you bought some, but you’re free to walk in there and just walk around and take photos. It was actually founded in 1983. It’s just outside Independence and it was founded on the idea of preserving the old garden roses from years and years ago. So now they have over 300 different and unique varieties of roses, some you can’t find anywhere else. It’s worth a stop.
09:16
If you like the outdoors, Washington County has plenty to offer. I mean, during the spring the area transformed into a sea of bluebonnets. All those photos you see from Texas in the springtime of the bluebonnets and the fields of them the majority of them are taken in Washington County, making it one of the most popular spots for wildflower enthusiasts. The Texas Bluebonnet Trail is a must-drive route, and you’ll find plenty of scenic spots to stop and take your photos. And if you like outdoor activities, especially water activities, lake Somerville is a fantastic destination. You can go fishing, kayaking or even set up camp for the weekend, and it’s surrounded by hiking and biking trails, if you’re a little more adventurous.
10:04
I don’t do that too much anymore. My knees are shot, and I just don’t do a lot of hiking and trail walking. I did it once. Nowadays I prefer to just drive past him and say, oh, isn’t that pretty. Look at that fellow out there. He’s walking. Good for him, not me, my knees are shot. So now let’s talk about a few of the other places that you just absolutely cannot miss when you visit Brenham.
10:26
First up, we have the iconic Bluebell Creameries. Bluebell was founded in 1907. It actually began as a Brenham Creamery Company and started making butter from the excess cream from local farmers. They later started making ice cream and delivered it by horse and wagon. It was in 1930 that the company changed its name to Bluebell Creameries after the native Texas Bluebell Wildflower. And in 1980, bluebell decided to start selling outside of the state of Texas for the first time, and it’s now sold in 23 different states.
11:04
You ask any true Texan what’s your favorite brand of ice cream, they’ll tell you Blue Bell. It’s an iconic Texas brand and if you’re a fan of ice cream then honestly, I mean it’s a must visit. You can take a tour of the factory and learn all about its rich history and, of course, sample some of their creamy, delicious creations. They even have a gift shop there. You can pick up some Blue Bell swag and impress your friends and downtown Brenham. Well, it’s just full of charm. It’s got beautifully preserved buildings, boutique shops and art galleries and local restaurants. There are actually two live theaters in town that put on live plays, and they’re sold out all the time. People drive from Houston an hour and a half just to go to these plays and they get some pretty good attendance there. But not only that, they get some I don’t know well, they’re not nationally known, but they’re well-known in the state of Texas and local area actors that come to do these things. And on the first Friday of each month there’s a farmer’s market and they’ve got live music and local goods.
12:05
There’s a lot of history of Brenham itself. In fact, there’s a little park in Brenham called Tobin Park. They first told me about it, told me how to get there, so I’m walking down there to look at it. I get to it, I’d rather be. Well, this is a park. It’s actually, you got to imagine, two parallel streets in a small country town. In between the streets there’s a little alley. Well, that alley is Tobin Park and it’s, like I said, bordered by two streets. But Tobin Park will tell you the story of early Brenham and the history of their cisterns. Now, because of my Texas accent. I want to make sure you understand what I’m talking about.
12:43
Cisterns C-I-S-T-E-R-N-S. Beneath Brenham Streets is a state archaeological landmark. It’s a large system of historic cisterns. They were built in the late 1800s to store rainwater for public firefighting, and they were so abundant throughout early Washington County and Brenham. These cisterns stored water, and it was used for bathing, drinking and cooking. Now you have got to remember this was the late 1800s and a large system of public cisterns was a rarity. The city was considered very progressive for using these newfangled contraptions to fight fires. No other Texas cities were known to install public cisterns or to provide public services so early. And Tobin Park will tell you the story of not only the cisterns but early Brenham, a historic fire that happened in Brenham at one point, and just the history of the town itself. It’s a fascinating little park and there’s a couple of benches where you can sit and relax, and right in the middle of the park is a cistern that you can look down that’s covered with glass that you can look down into and see it.
13:56
But Brenham itself has a lot of history. In fact, they’ve got something called the Brenham Heritage Museum. It is a great museum. You step back in time and explore the history of Brenham and the surrounding area with all their exhibits. They have got several permanent exhibits and some rotating exhibits. They are adding new stuff all the time.
14:15
It’s in a big, huge building. It used to be the. I think it used to be the federal building for the post office or something years ago. But it’s a big building right near downtown, right next to the Brenham Fire Museum, and you can’t miss this one. I mean, I discovered it the first time I ever went to Brenham. I’m driving past I’m like whoa, wait a minute, let me pull in here. This looks cool. The Brenham Fire Museum actually is in an old Brenham firehouse, but outside the firehouse but outside the firehouse, in the parking lot, in a glass encased showpiece, is an old horse drawn fire truck. I’m like this is so cool. I mean you walk up to it and see it. It’s fabulous. But inside the fire department building itself there’s several old fire trucks, very rare and historic fire trucks, and it’s a cool museum. It’s open all the time. Just go in there, write your name down, walk around and look at everything. There’s nobody in there banning it, unless you can call them and get a guided tour or if you have a group coming or something, but other than that, there’s somebody that comes in, opens it up in the morning, closes it down at night and you’re free to walk in there and look around and explore the place.
15:25
Brenham also has another very historic item in town. It’s called the Flying Horses Antique Carousel. It is a restored carousel with hand-carved horses located at Fireman’s Park, which is a park in Brenham, and the Flying Horses Carousel is one of only five surviving classic wood carousels that exist in Texas. It’s still open, it still runs, and you take your kids and they can ride this historic carousel. According to the National Carousel Association, Brenham’s Flying Horses Carousel is the oldest in Texas and one of the few remaining carousels consisting of horses hand-carved by Charles W Dare, who was like one of the famous carvers of horse carousels years and years and years ago. It’s a fantastic carousel. I mean, it’s just something about simple times from years gone past. You can take your kids there and tell them to put down their iPhone and get off their social media accounts and just enjoy riding this old carousel from years ago, and it’s really cool. It’s a beautiful carousel and, of course, you can’t visit Brenham without indulging in some of the local foods and drinks.
16:46
If we start with the food scene, one of the best places you can go to get some barbecue is a place called Truth Barbecue. It’s been named one of the best barbecue spots in the state and if you’re in the mood for something lighter, you can head to a place called Must Be Heaven for their sandwiches and famous pies and, of course, blue Bell ice cream that they serve up and for a really good burger, and I’m talking a good burger. You got to go to this spot called the Dairy Bar and it’s what looks like an old Dairy Queen building and they have some of the best hamburgers you will ever eat and you can’t be in a hurry and you can’t be impatient, since they only have a couple of people doing the cooking, and when I was there, there was two ladies out front taking the orders, and they are always busy. I mean, I stopped by and there were about 10 or 11 cars lined up and five or six people standing inside waiting to order, and it’s just a locally owned, flat out good hamburger joint. I always, every time I travel somewhere, I like to stop at these little small hamburger places or locally owned little restaurants that have been around for a while that everybody says you got to go there, they got the best burger man, and all it is is a little old hole in the wall in a lot of cases. This one is like I said it’s in an old Dairy Queen building and that hamburger was delicious. So do yourself a favor Look up the Dairy Bar when you get to Brenham. It’s on a little side street right off of Highway 290. There’s nothing else next to it. It’s just off a little two-lane road but there’ll be a mess of cars out there. That place is popular.
18:29
Washington County also has a lot of wineries and breweries. I mean Washington County has some excellent wineries. They also have the Brazos Valley Brewing Company, which is a local favorite. I stopped by there. They’ve got craft beers and pretty good food and a lot of outdoor space. They have events and live music going on all the time there. I enjoyed my visit going over to that place and, like I said, there are a few winers in the area. Now, I didn’t visit any of them, but I heard a lot of good things from people that like wine and go to them. I don’t know much about wine, I’m more of a beer or whiskey guy, but check them out if you’re in the area and you enjoy wine. Evidently there are some really nice ones.
19:09
Now Brenham, Texas, like I said, is halfway not halfway, but it’s on the way between Houston and Austin, right off of Highway 290. And most people just fly right through there. Slow down a little bit, hopefully they don’t get caught speeding and you don’t see any of it, because all you’re seeing is the outskirts of town. On the highway you have to get off 290 and drive into the town of Brenham. That is where everything happens. That is the heartbeat of Washington County. You’re going to pass right through Chappel Hill also, but you’re not going to see anything. You’re going to see a gas station, you’re going to see a sign that says Chapel Hill, but you got to get off of the highway a couple of blocks to actually get into Chappel Hill to see anything. But Tynan is everything when it comes to travel, and Brenham is no exception.
19:57
Now, the best time to visit is in the spring, when the wildflowers, especially the bluebonnets, are in full bloom. You can celebrate the anniversary of Texas Independence the weekend nearest March, the 2nd, at Washington-on-The Brazos State Park. There are just all kinds of things going on there Reenactments and just tons of stuff going on Now. Every April the Blue Bonnet Festival of Texas in Chappel Hill takes place and it’s an annual celebration of the state’s official flower. They’ve got all kinds of food, live entertainment, music and more than 250 vendors showing up selling their stuff at the festival. In May they have the Brenham Maifest. You enjoy food and music and a day full of fun at the Mayfest, which is an annual festival honoring Brenham’s rich German heritage. They’ve got a colorful parade that kicks off the annual event, including German music, dancers, children’s carnival, home brewing contests and a whole lot more. And in September you can attend the Washington County Fair, the oldest county fair in Texas. Shows and rodeos and music and fun and carnival, and crafts and food, livestock, poultry auctions, all kinds of exhibits and attractions. If you’ve never been to a Texas county fair, you should really check one out. And what better one to go to than the one that’s the oldest in the state? And as far as accommodations, well, there’s all kinds of the usual rentals you know the Airbnb’s and everything and there’s several hotels to pick from.
21:33
Now I stayed at a place called Ant Street Inn and it’s in a building. It’s right in downtown Brenham. It’s in a building from 1899. And that building used to be home to several businesses under one roof. It housed a butcher shop and a saloon, and a feed store and a dry goods store, along with a ballroom and medium rooms. The owners bought this building and refurbished it, keeping with the historic charm. When you go in, there’s a restaurant on the bottom floor, along with a check-in desk and area. There. The rooms fifteen of them are all upstairs, decorated in period pieces, with each room having a theme of some sort.
22:16
Now I stayed in the Memphis room and it is a southeast corner room. It has exposed brick walls and seven windows, all looking out on the brim, and includes the original 120 year old freight elevator from the days of the original smith brothers mercantile. The elevator doesn’t work but I mean it’s really cool. It sits right in the middle of your room. There you walk in and there’s a freight elevator looking at you. There’s rooms that that have a poker table set up for poker in them. It’s just a fantastic hotel and you can walk out onto the second floor porch where there’s rocking chairs and just enjoy the afternoon, looking out at the courtyard and parts of Brenham. I mean it’s just a great hotel. I enjoyed that and the food there is pretty good at the restaurant.
23:04
So, here’s a couple of tips when you’re going to Brenham in Washington County. First, bring a camera, because there’s wildflowers photos or you’re going to want to get those, and there’s just so many opportunities for really great photos, whether it’s in Independence, Chappel Hill, Washington on the Brazos, Brenham or little town of Burton, which is nearby also. There’s just, it’s just tons of opportunities. So, make sure you bring a camera or just use your phone. If you want to use your phone, plan your trip around local events and festivals to experience the very best that the area has to offer.
23:40
And Brenham’s just a short drive from all major cities Well, not all. El Paso would be quite a haul, but it’s really not that far from Dallas or Austin or San Antonio or Houston. It’s about an hour and a half outside Houston, about an hour and a half to Austin, maybe two hours to San Antonio and about three to Dallas, and that’s driving distance in Texas. It makes for a great weekend getaway and if you went over there for a weekend you could see just about all the major stuff. You could spend a few hours in Independence, head over to Washington on the Brazos. Next day, hit Chappel Hill and visit everything in Brenham. Well, that wraps up our journey to Brenham and Washington County today.
24:22
And from the historic landmarks to all the scenic wildflower trails, not to mention the ice cream, this Texas treasure truly has something for everyone. I still enjoy visiting there. Every time I get a chance, I’ll just run up there and spend the afternoon. So, if you get a chance, definitely visit. Rich in Texas history, great food, bluebell ice cream and a whole bunch of really nice people to show you around, tell you all about the place. So, thank you for tuning in to the Traveling Fool. If you enjoyed today’s episode, be sure to subscribe. Leave us a review. If you get a chance, go to the website, and sign up for our newsletter. You get one a month. I don’t sell your info to anybody. It’s just me. I’m a one–man show, so the only thing I usually email for is to send you the newsletter. So, until next time, safe travels, thank you.
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